S2692 || ZigZagZoom Dress

Ever see a fabric from across a crowded room that makes your heart skip a beat, your palms sweat and your breathing race? Maybe it’s just me? I spied this ziggy fabric at the Puyallup Sewing Expo in March and just KNEW I had to have it. Like many of my stash fabrics, I had no idea what to do with it, and so it sat, uncut in my stash for four months while I pondered. And pondered. And pondered.

And then this pattern caught my eye, and I knew it was “the one”. Le sigh.

S2692 Pattern Description: Misses Special Occasion Dress or Gown. Can be sewn up in either knits or special occasion wovens like silks, charmeuse, crepe de chine and georgette. (How’s THAT for versatile?)

Pattern Sizing: 4-12, 12-20. Mine is a 14 in the bust, and a 16 in the hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Really, really easy. Lots of great line drawings and super clear instructions. This would be a great beginning sewer’s dress, especially if sewn in a knit.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Cutting it out took the longest time, but sewing it up was really quick. Initially, I used the zigzag fabric for the center, empire waist section, but after assembly, realized that it would look infinitely better in another colour. Luckily, I had some brown jersey scraps in my stash and ripping it/replacing was quick.

Fabric Used: ITY knit from Vogue Fabrics. It doesn’t roll! It doesn’t roll!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I’m on a “I’m not hemming it unless I have to” kick, so I didn’t hem this dress. I also skipped the zipper insertion as the dress pulls on easily over my head. Instead of placing all of the gathers at CF and CB, I distributed them evenly across both skirt pieces. I like this look much better.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Absolutely, I’d sew it again. Maybe next time in a special occasion fabric?

Conclusion: It's a great little dress with lots of zany zip! I’d absolutely sew it up if you’re looking for a way to use your novelty knit!

Sewaholic Patterns || Minoru Jacket

Fun in black and white!

Winter is gross! It's time to make a spring raincoat!

Minoru Pattern Description:
The Minoru Jacket is a zip-front weekend jacket with a secret hood hidden inside the wide collar! If you prefer, skip the hood and let the dramatic collar be the focus. Flattering raglan sleeves are comfortable and easy-to-sew, and the elastic waistline creates a slim, curve-hugging silhouette.

Pattern Sizing: 0-16 (all sizes are included in one pattern!) Mine is a 14.

So versatile and stylish! Fun!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It does! My fabric is a little crazy, tho, so you don't see all of the fabulous details that Tasia included in this pattern. It fits like a dream with enough room inside for a sweater if it gets cold.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The written pattern directions were vetted by eleventy-hundred pattern testers before publication, so if you can read, you can do this! Tasia also provided a sew-a-long (which I participated in), and I felt that even though it took more time, I got a lot of great tips that I'll be using again!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the hidden hood inside the collar. The inside pockets and nipped waist make this a favourite pattern. I've got a smallish head, tho, so next time I'll draft the hood a little smaller.

Fabric Used: I'm stashbustin' again. This 100% cotton home dec fabric is from Ikea that I've been holding onto it for more than two years. I'm glad I finally used it but its heaviness made gathering the neckline a real PITA. I also used Scotchguard to weatherize it. The inside is a peacock-coloured static-free acetate lining. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: No pattern alterations (a rare treat!), but I added hidden side-seam pockets (a first!). Next time, I'll use this tutorial and add front pockets. I just can't get enough pockets! I'll also use a different zipper. This one was marked for a parka and has a little joiner at the bottom that makes it a little fiddly to zip up.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I absolutely will make this pattern again. I'm seeing a red jacket in my future...

Conclusion: I love this coat. LOVE it! It was worth all the time and effort I put into it! Thank you, Tasia!

M6078 || Sparkle Tank

Every year, for the past nine years, I've held a wine party at my house in mid-January. After the post-holiday slump, it's nice to have an event to look forward to! I invite my friends to bring a bottle of their choice because 1) They really like it, 2) They've never drank it and want to, or 3) They just really liked the look of the label on the shelf. (#3 is the reason I usually pick a wine, FYI) 

The party is also an excuse for me to buy copious amount of cheese to go with the assorted wines, which is really fun for me. I try to mix it up and include some brie, goat, sharp, and the disgustingly wonderful port wine chedder spread from Wisconsin. I'm pretty sure I'm the only one that eats it, but I love it! Post-party, most of the cheesy leftovers get thrown into a big pot of homemade mac and cheese. This year, my fella and his daughter were the lucky invitees to that meal, and although sad to see it go, I sent them home with the leftovers.

Each year, I also try to either make or buy something new to wear to the party. This year, I decided to raid ye olde stash and make a tank. M6078, view B was not my first choice (it was actually my fourth!), but because the original plan for the wee 1-1/2 yard chunk of fabric was a tube top (what WAS I thinking?), my choices were limited.

This pattern has been reviewed a TON on PatternReview.com, so I won't tell you anything you don't already know about it. In fact, this pattern was chosen as one of the Best of 2011 and after the ease with which it went together, I can see why. Just make it. You'll be glad you did!

It may be a little sheer in the back, but I still think it's festive!

V8778 || Scrap-Happy Sweater

Fun with wool and cashmere

Last January, I got really excited about making new sweaters with project scrap remnants and sweaters that I picked up on the cheap at Goodwill (charity shop). While cleaning out my fabric stash (since it IS January again!), I was ready to part with even more scraps and sweaters... enter sweater V8778.

It's like wearing a hug!

Pattern Description: Very loose-fitting, pullover top or unlined jacket has collar, front and back extending into upper sleeves, lower sleeves and stitched hems. Topstitching.

Pattern Sizing: S – XXL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? You bet!

Were the instructions easy to follow? They are, although I put the sleeves in flat and did most of my sewing on the serger.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It runs REALLY large. According to pattern sizing, I should have made a large, but after doing some flat pattern measuring, I would have been SWIMMING in that size. Mine is a small in the bust, moving to a medium in the waist/hips.

Fabric Used: Wool and cashmere sweaters and scraps from my stash. The pattern recommends fleece and sweatshirt material, but the hacked up sweaters worked out great!

Pieced under collar (on the right)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I had to strategically carve up the pattern so that I could use my scraps. Each time I cut a section from the pattern, I had to also add extra seam allowances so that everything would line up. The layout of the project took MUCH longer than the sewing, but the finished product is so cool, I wouldn't change a thing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might make the zipped version in the future. I've got some red cashmere still in the stash...

Conclusion: This is a warm and cozy sweater that I'm sure I'll be wearing for years. I met Katherine Tilton (and her very inspiring sister, Marci!) at last years' Sewing Expo in Puyallup, WA. I'm considering wearing this sweater to show Katherine at this years' expo. :) Fun!

M6450 || Houndstooth Newsboy Hat

Fun with scraps!

I'm working at stashbusting, and had a couple of different houndstooth fabrics on-hand. On a whim, I picked up M6450 at a $1 pattern sale and decided to play!

This is a fun hat to wear!

 
Pattern Description: Lined hats in head sizes X-Small (20 ¹/2"), Small (21 ¹/2"), Medium (22 ¹/2") and Large (23 ¹/2") Hat B: Contrast crown, band, belt and buttons to cover.  Designed for medium-weight woven fabrics.

Pattern Sizing: XS - L. Mine was a Medium.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Super easy. I'd never made a hat before, and this was quick and made up in less than a day.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I used up some stashin' scraps. It doesn't take much fabric to make a hat, I've found. 

Side view

Top view (the center button is a little misplaced, but no one else will notice!)

Fabric Used: 100% wool houndstooth fabric. The large format is a boucle, which was challenging to work with (it shreds when cut). The small format was from the Pendleton store.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't have any fusible hair canvas in the stash and used PalmerPletsch Tailor-weight fusible. Were I to make the hat again, I'd def. get my hands on the hair canvas. The hat collapses really easily under the weight of the heavier fabric.

Since I used the large-format (shredding!) fabric for the band, I couldn't stitch it up as the directions ask you to. Instead, I did my best to tuck under the unruly ends, sandwiching them between the layers. It wasn't a perfect solution, but with the addition of a little strategic Fray Check, those darn unruly ends won't continue to shred. 

I also attached the lining to the crown with a couple of invisible stitches so it wouldn't collapse every time I took the hat off.

I didn't buy a button cover kit for this project, and instead covered a stray stash button using this tutorial. I highly recommend it!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I would definitely make this hat again. It was quick and easy and it's CUTE on top of it. I'm considering using more scraps by making the gloves in the pattern kit.

Conclusion: This is a fun hat that I get tons of compliments on when I wear it out. If you like a stylish topper, I highly recommend it!

Pimpin' My Ride || DIY panniers

I'm upping my street cred. 

I've wanted a bike for nearly as long as I've lived in Portland, OR. This is probably the most bike-friendly city in the United States, and I wanted to be part of the bike culture. With gas prices on the rise (again) and the built-in benefit of great exercise, it's a win-win to go by bike. 

About two months ago, my darling boyfriend bought a new bike for himself, and sweetly gave me his old commuter bike. I've been taking it out on longer and longer rides ("Getting my bike butt", he tells me) and I wanted to go beyond casual rides to start doing actual errands with it. Trouble is, I didn't have panniers (aka: bike bags) and I didn't want to shell out the cash when I could make 'em myself.

It rains here A LOT, so I needed something that would shed water and clean up easily. In my art supply stash, I had three castoff large vinyl advertising banners that would work perfectly for the project. I used this tutorial to make the bags, utilized a Teflon foot, Gutterman thread and a universal needle for the sewing. Knowing that the panniers would probably get both dirty and wet, I chose not to line them with fabric. After the inaugural ride this last Sunday where they were flapping around like Dumbo's ears, I also added Velcro strips to the bag flaps.

Right side exterior. The banner used for the flap was for a cruise ship giveaway.

Interior of right pannier. I added a pocket to hold my cell phone and wallet.
The bag strap also tucks in nicely. (I was on my way to the library. See my book?)

I love these little bags, and can't wait to go grocery shopping with them. I'm on the move!

I also made bike shorts awhile ago, and while you won't see a picture, I highly recommend Kwik Sew 1727.

Another CAbi-Inspired Garment: The Paley Vest

CAbi FW 2010 Paley Vest

How cute is that little vest!? I just fell in love with its' graphic nature and the exposed zipper...it's a fun piece to add some spark to the wardrobe. Since it's still fairly cold here in the Pacific Northwest, I'll still be able to get some wear out of it before Spring FINALLY shows up and stays for awhile. We've been getting periodic sunshiny days, but most are still cold! Like 40s to mid 50s. Brrr!

Anywho... on to the vest! I got a screamin' deal on the fabric at Fabric Depot's Outdoor Sale two years ago. I think this wool/poly blend was something like $5 a yard. I made a winter coat out of it, too, and had about 2 yards left to play with. I made my own pattern, based on my Chanel jacket, which had princess seams. Not wanting to match up the houndstooth on princess seams because it's impossible, I joined the front and side front pieces at the seam allowance with pins and traced the joined pieces. I did the same thing for the back piece. When trying this on Betty (my dressform), I realized that I needed .5" bust darts added to the front. They're barely noticeable and make the front hang so much better. I also drafted the front and neck facings based on the pattern I created. I'm pretty pleased with the results. The fringe was fun and MUCH faster to make than on the Chanel jacket.

In the spirit of what I learned from MeMadeMarch '11, most garments I create from now on will go with at least three things I already own. So here goes! I skipped my favourite black pencil skirt/boot combination, because, well... it's boring. Also, it's supposed to be SPRING! Boots are for WINTER. Hear that Spring? I'm calling you OUT.

Houndstooth and pink paisley were made for each other, don'tcha think?

The back looks like I need a swayback adjustment, but IRL, it hangs fine. I must have been standing funny. In related news, after taking this pic, I realized that I have a flat butt. Must learn how to make flat butt adjustments for future trousers. These ones are doing my pert, cute butt NO favours. There may be colourful pants in my future. Wouldn't this look fantastic with RED pants?

I just love black and white houndstooth. I'm now the proud owner of black and white houndstooth Wellies, a purse, a skirt and now a vest. I'm flirting with the idea of wearing the larger format vest with the smaller format skirt. Is that too much? :)

With my red tunic top. Cute!

The long-sleeved white shirt I've been told is a wardrobe essential, but I have never worn. It looks good here!

With a dark denim shirt and jaunty scarf.

Casual with jeans and my pink swirl top. 

Blocks of Sunshine | Summer Duvet

Time for a summer project to brighten up a dreary winter!

 

I have a confession to make.

I've been hording scraps of fun cotton fabric for the last two years. Any time I've got remnants that could be cut down into a 6" or 12" square, I held on to it. Wadders, ugly men's shirts from Goodwill, project leftovers... I held on to EVERYTHING. As you can imagine, when you're thinking about making a pieced duvet covers, that's a lot of stash to hoard. It was time for a little summer sewing!

Duvet, back. The original cover was all horizontally striped. Cute, but boring after ten years of use. Time to switch it up!

I've been using the original, cabana striped duvet in the summertime for over 10 years and I love it! The cabana stripes are so fun and they make me think of warmer weather in Mexico or Hawaii. I enjoy the bold colour scheme. Those stripes even inspired some really fun art that I hung elsewhere in the house.

Duvet, Front... or is it?

I enjoy the new combination even more than I thought I would. The addition of the new scrap fabrics adds a lot of interest, and because the back had to be pieced as well, the duvet is now reversible. So if I get bored of one side, I'll just flip it. Yay for unintended coolness! Yay for using up what I had in the stash, too!

This wasn't a fast project by any means, but it's a very satisfying one. I'll be proud to have it cover my bed for at least the next 10 years.

Adding to the Stash : Bassetti Tessuti, Rome, Italy

Rooms upon rooms of fabric. Heck yeah!

Have you heard of Bassetti Tessuti? (which is really fun to say!)

Before I'd read the NYT article about them and been to Rome, I hadn't either. In planning my trip to Italy last month, I KNEW I had to stop there. I'd heard it was overwhelming, amazing and so fabulous they gave you a GUIDE, but until I got there, I had NO idea what kind of "Alice in Wonderland" kind of experience I was in for. Floor-to-ceiling fabrics of all sorts. Here, a room full of men's suiting, there, a room full of crisp cotton shirting. 99.9% of it completely unavailable in the US. I was like a kid in a candy store, but oh, what candy!

So, without further ado, let me show you what I bought and what I plan to do with it.

Alpaca wool in teal and purple : Soft enough for some beautiful sweaters!
Anyone got a good sweater pattern?
I'm open to suggestions.

100% silk panel. This will be hemmed into a scarf.

Black and white burnout velvet. I'm thinking of a long-sleeved button up. Cute over a tank top and trousers.

Bitmapped 100% silk fabric from Gianni Versace (!!). Destined to be one of these.

Olive burnout velvet. Will be lined in nude and made into a tank top.

Heavy lycra jersey destined to be cute, long-sleeved tops. Possibly with cowls (my new favourite thing!)

The splurge: sequins! That are black on one side…

And silver on the other. This will be a tube top to be worn under sweaters and jackets.

None of it was cheap – averaging about $30US/yard. It was a PITA to ship (and spendy!), but I don't regret a purchase. Or the fact that my handsome "helper", Marcello, flirted with me mercilessly and begged me to go to lunch with him that day. Who am I to resist? I was furthering US/Italian relations. Just doing my part. Viva Italia!