"Me Made March 2011"!

It's on like Donkey Kong!

I was jealous, jealous, jealous of everybody's cute clothes on the last round of "Me Made Month", so I'm going to play this time! The fact that I now have enough clothes that I've made to wear is amazing all by itself. I will also post a photo roundup each Friday to show you how it all turned out!

'I, Darci of darcidoodle-do.blogspot.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-March '11. I endeavour to wear at least one handmade garment, refashion or accessory each day for the duration of March 2011'.

Want to know more? Check out Zo's challenge at http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.com/2011/02/me-made-march-11-join-me.html

Blocks of Sunshine | Summer Duvet

Time for a summer project to brighten up a dreary winter!

 

I have a confession to make.

I've been hording scraps of fun cotton fabric for the last two years. Any time I've got remnants that could be cut down into a 6" or 12" square, I held on to it. Wadders, ugly men's shirts from Goodwill, project leftovers... I held on to EVERYTHING. As you can imagine, when you're thinking about making a pieced duvet covers, that's a lot of stash to hoard. It was time for a little summer sewing!

Duvet, back. The original cover was all horizontally striped. Cute, but boring after ten years of use. Time to switch it up!

I've been using the original, cabana striped duvet in the summertime for over 10 years and I love it! The cabana stripes are so fun and they make me think of warmer weather in Mexico or Hawaii. I enjoy the bold colour scheme. Those stripes even inspired some really fun art that I hung elsewhere in the house.

Duvet, Front... or is it?

I enjoy the new combination even more than I thought I would. The addition of the new scrap fabrics adds a lot of interest, and because the back had to be pieced as well, the duvet is now reversible. So if I get bored of one side, I'll just flip it. Yay for unintended coolness! Yay for using up what I had in the stash, too!

This wasn't a fast project by any means, but it's a very satisfying one. I'll be proud to have it cover my bed for at least the next 10 years.

Good Eats || My Favourite Mac and Cheese Recipe

Can you smell it from there? Deeelicious!

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 1 1/2 cups half and half
• 3 cups white cheddar cheese, shredded and divided (2c for sauce, 1c for topping)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper (more if you like it feisty!)
• Salt
• 1 pound elbow macaroni, cooked to al dente (with a little bite to it)

Serves 4

Preparation

Heat oven to 350º.

Heat a medium, deep skillet over medium heat. Add butter and let it melt. In small batches, whisk in flour to combine. Gently cook, whisking constantly, until it's smooth and flour has had a chance to cook (about three minutes).

Slowly add half and half while continuing to whisk. Gently bring milk to a bubble while stirring frequently. Allow the milk to thicken a bit, then stir in two cups of shredded cheddar cheese a handful at a time.

Season sauce with nutmeg and cayenne pepper. Taste and add a little salt, if you like. Combine cheese and pasta and coat completely by turning the pasta over and over in the cheese sauce.

Transfer to a baking dish and top with remaining cheese. Place baking dish in oven and brown the cheddar cheese on top. Check at 15 minutes.

Enjoy!

Twinkle Sews || "Take Manhattan" Overblouse

I'll take Manhattan, the Bronx, and Staten Island too...
(I was whistling this Sinatra tune the whole time I was working on this top!)

Pattern Description: Short-sleeved, raglan-sleeve overblouse with cowl collar and tie. Lined or unlined are options.

Pattern Sizing: 2-6-8-10-12-16. Mine is a 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Mostly. See more on this below...

Were the instructions easy to follow? As many reviewers on amazon.com have said, "Twinkle Sews" would be challenging for the new sewist. The writer makes many assumptions regarding construction details, and this could be very confusing to some. That being said, I barely read the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Boy howdy, you'd better REALLY like the patterns in this book. The book comes with a CD that includes all the patterns as .pdf or .ai files at various sizes. This simple pattern was over 65 separate sheets of 8-1/2  x 11 paper and took more than 3 hours to tape together. (I have performed this level of tiling in previous employment, so I'm fast.) Also, the author could have chosen an "on the fold" layout vs. cutting the pieces flat. Separate, designated lining pattern pieces were unnecessary as they're only .5" longer than the fashion fabric pieces. Altogether, this was pretty wasteful.

After taping, I also had to re-draw the pattern on tissue for pattern fitting before even cutting out the fashion fabric. I'd read other reviews of the clothes in this book, and knew that other sewists have have trouble with sizing running far too large. Altogether, the prep/cutting took 5 hours and the sewing took 3 hours. That's a lot of work for this top. I would HIGHLY recommend taking the CD to a large format print house and let them print it out for you. It'll save a lot of frustration. I'm hoping if Twinkle has a 2nd volume, she'll consider including the paper patterns, like Burda and Knipmode do.


A few more things to keep in mind:
1) The size 12, when laid out on-grain would take nearly 3 yards of 60" wide fabric.
2) The collar is far too long for the neck opening. I had to gather the collar to fit the neck and even then, there was way too much ease when it was attached. Another reviewer mentioned that she'd made her cowl 1/2 the size of the pattern piece for her size. I'll start there with the re-draft.
3) The author alternates between 3/8" and 5/8" seams. I used 5/8" throughout. This made it easier to do the specialty seaming.
4) If you're not planning on lining this top, use flat-felled seams for the sides and french seams for the sleeve and cowl.
5) Make sure you're comfortable with the sleeve length. They're really, really short.

Fabric Used: I bought the recommended 2 yards of 60" wide fabric, and really should have bought 3 yards. My 100% polyester mid-weight fabric has a lot of body and won't hold a crease, which is perfect for traveling, but horrible when you want it hang flat on body. I used the cording in the hood to gather up the hood and really like this look in this fabric. I think I look like a little modern flower. However, I'll buy  fabric with less body next time, so that the cowl drapes instead.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Removed 4" from hip width, added 2" to length. Next time, I'll add 3-4" to the sleeve length. In lieu of a self-fabric tie, I used 1/2" flat black cording from the stash.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I worked FAR too hard on this top not to make it again. A summer version is in order. Possibly in the hot pink linen I have in the stash.

Conclusion: If you're willing to make a considerable time investment, this hip, modern silhouette is worth the work.

Performing a Little Sweater Surgery

January has been all about sewing creations of a different kind.

I'd seen a lot of sweater surgeries gone awry on etsy.com, and I knew that I wanted a more streamlined, modern look vs. hippy/fairy queen/happy hands at home that seems to be prevalent in the refashioning sweater genre. After a year of trawling through the racks of "dead"/moth eaten/pitstained/"in need of a good shave" sweaters at Goodwill, I finally had enough cashmere and wool to make NEW sweaters. This was my first foray into sewing without a pattern. It's been fun to drape and fit and cut and stand back and see if the result is what I wanted.

Each sweater took one to two weeks to create and were constructed almost entirely with my serger. I'm very proud of how they all turned out. I think Betty wears them well!

The 1960s Cropped Sweater

Colourblocked Tunic – it's reversible!

Architectural Sweater Coat (swote!)

If you're thinking of refashioning your own sweater stash, this book was a great source of information and inspiration.

But wait, there's more! (2010 round up)

I sew SO many more projects than I ever post here (or on PR), so here's my laundry list for 2010, starting in March when I REALLY got inspired!

66 projects was a lot. I'm really satisfied with my sewing for 2010! I learned a lot (especially on that Chanel jacket!), but as with all things, I'm getting better (and faster!) as I go. Who could ask for more?

Spring 2010: (March – May)
- Chanel jacket: wadder!
- hem speckle pants
- make skirt out of matron dress
- install snaps in straps of stained glass dress
- boob tube for convertible dress
- lt. denim s/s shirt
- S2599 ruffle tank top out of ceruleun blue gauze
- cotton ripstop hiking/biking pants + pockets + cargo pockets (black)
- New Look 6838: boatneck tee in groovie olive/blue fabric
- cotton ripstop hiking/biking pants + pockets + cargo pockets (olive w/lime topstitching)
- white button-down shirt (Vogue 1165) • haven't worn yet
- workout shirts (draft from existing V-neck shirts)
- slips to go under cute skirts: cream
- Wrap dress (McCall's 5974, view C) > cut 14 bust/waist/hip, 3yds @ 60" stretch knit only. May not need zipper (look at other notes in Crafting)
- denim A-line skirt • never worn
- square neck knit top to go with cute skirts solid red + side ruching
- finish adjusting Mitzi's skirt

June–August
- adjust 4 previous self-drafted summer skirts for shorter hemline
- B5386 V-neck sweater
-  B5465 sheer red & brown v-neck tunic
- fleece robe (in June! Argh.)
- KS3790 brown rusched top to go with cute skirts 
- M6038 drapey red cardi (view B)
- s/s exercise tops (purple, blue green) XL
- M5860 black denim jacket
- padded bike shorts
- sports bra
- ripstop nylon packable grocery bag
- jammies out of wicking fabric for trip (boxers + tank)
- copy black ruched tank
- tan linen palazzo pants
- black linen palazzo pants
- B5465 crinkle cotton v-neck tunic
- (Linda McPhee) cargos (olive green + black)
- black A-line skirt (tie waist, like madras plaids skirt)
- striped v-neck dress (have V8553)
- dk brown linen, lined A-line skirt
- LBD for trip (M6069, view C)
- black travel fabric cross top (+ tunic?) TOSSED!
- stained glass cross top (fit is wonky!)
- security slip w/ two zippered pockets (lost before the trip)
- copy favourite underwear + make 3 pair for trip (perfect lycra scrap project!)
- hostel sheet :: add removeable hidden pocket to stash valuables/eyemask/earplugs (best $12 I ever spent)
- bucket hat with hidden compartment (didn't wear. Scrap project)
- ripstop nylon hidden pocket (Rick Steves' idea. Wore everywhere in Italy)

Fall/Winter (Oct.–Dec.)
- seam blackout curtains
- leopard print pencil skirt (w/lining) :: (cupcake goddess pencil fit tute) LOVE.
- leopard shrug/jacket (CAbi) (S2858)
- Vogue 8580 tunic, View C (like CAbi FW10
- V8151 wrap top in python (still needs bust adjustments)
- Brown LS tunic from La Mia Plus pattern (Sept10) TOO BIG: Off to Mom! (who likes it!)
- red fleece cowlneck
- faux fur stole
- fix winter duvet
- houndstooth winter coat
- V8634 drapey cowl tee peacock knit
- V8634 drapey cowl tee dotty black Italy fabric
- V8413 Joan Dress, View B grey doubleknit :: no lining!
- M6069 Mullet Dress
- Black fleece pants
- Hot pink funnel neck (wadder: off to Kimo)
- 1960s retro sweater (cashmere, thrifted sweater surgery)
- M6078 drape top (like Erica B's) in green (make in a better fabric next time!)
- Italy sequin tanktop for NYEve and Sewing Expo (New Look 6838)
- V8634 Italy purple alpaca sweater
- M6104 2 pr. boxers

Onward and upward with 2011 ~ the most creative year is to come!

NL 6838 || Shiny Happy People Tank

I can't believe the mileage I've gotten from this one little pattern. This New Look 6838 pattern was the very first pattern I ever bought, way back in 1995.  I've made the pants, the long-sleeved top and now the tanktop. I can't believe it's not Out of Print (OOP) yet -- that's a LOOONG life on a pattern!

With my gorgeous friend, Stephanie

Pattern Description:
Three tops sized for knits and two pants for wovens. Top A boat neck and ¾ sleeves, Top B wide V neck and long sleeves, Top C boat neck shell. Pants D and E both for wovens with drawstring and different lengths. I made Top C.

Pattern Sizing:
Multi-sized pattern from XS to XL. I graded the pattern from a Medium in the bust to an XL in the hips. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. With adjustments

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't even look at them! The nerve!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The last time I made this top, the original width of the boatneck was too large and required that I use various bra-strap hiding techniques, which was a pain. This time, I added 1-1/2" to each shoulder to fix it. Worked like a charm!

Fabric Used:
My double-sided sequinned fabric from Italy. This was my New Year's Eve top and needed to be sparkly! It also had to be done almost completely by hand, so that was  new challenge.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut both the front and back patterns on the fold to remove the center back seam. I lined the sequin fabric with black tricot and inserted it separately. Because I wanted the sequins to change upward/downward rather than right/left (revealing the black or silver, respectively), the stretch ended up being vertical, rather than horizontal around the body. I added a hidden side zipper to fix this more body-conscious silhouette.


I'd never made a garment by hand way before, but because of the pokey nature of the sequins, it couldn't have been done any other way. I was REALLY glad that I had the "Threads" archive CD to refer to or this never would have gotten done by New Years. Altogether, it was about 19 hours of hand-sewing, mostly because I spent 9 hours doing it WRONG before I started doing the construction correctly. My studio looks like a disco ball blew up! It's been fun to find hidden sparkles all around my house.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm sure I will, in other specialty fabrics. This pattern is remarkably versatile, give it a shot!
 
Conclusion:
This was the perfectly simple pattern to showcase my sequins. This top is both fun and functional! I plan to wear it often under jackets and with kicky skirts. Who doesn't need a little more sparkle in their lives?

S2558 • The Mmmrrrow! Jacket

The CAbi FW2010 collection inspires me again!

When I tried on this CAbi Lola shrug ($138) at this fall's CAbi party, I remember sighing a little. It felt like a warm hug, and who couldn't use more of THAT on cold winter nights? So I set out to make one of my own. I looked all over creation for the exact, plushy fabric that Carol Anderson used, but couldn't locate it. So I went for the next best thing: brown and black spotted leopard. I think this little number's going to look great with black AND brown, which will give it maximum versatility in my wardrobe.


Pattern Description: Misses Jacket with Front Variations.

Pattern Sizing: 4-20. Mine was a straight 14.
 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? With modifications, it looks like a longer version of the CAbi Lola shrug, which is what I was going for!
 
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yep. I find it curious that, with wool as a fabric option, the pattern designers didn't include lining instructions and pattern pieces. It didn't deter me from adding the lining anyway.

What did you like/dislike about the pattern? I was too eager to make this coat, so I didn't pattern fit, which was a mistake all 'round. This unstructured coat pattern is SO boxy and has too much ease. Next time I make it, I'll take off about 3" of ease. I can't wear it closed as it gapes and hangs funny, which is kind of a bummer.

Fabric Used: Low pile faux fur from Fabric Depot.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added a hot pink lining. What girlie girl doesn't love that? I also used hooks for closures as they're hidden in the fabric. Compared to the notch collar of the CAbi design, mine has a shawl collar.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would! Just check that ease or you'll be swimming in this jacket.

Conclusion: It's (nearly) exactly what I wanted and cost less than 1/3 of the Lola shrug. Thanks for the great inspiration, Carol Anderson!

M6069 | The Mullet Dress

Get it?

You know! "Business in the front, party in the rear".  :)

The V-neck is surprisingly bra-friendly!

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESSES AND SASH: Pullover, above mid-knee, semi-fitted straight dresses A, B, C have elastic waist casing, stitched hem and bodice variations; dress A is sleeveless; dress B has three-quarter sleeves; dress C is sleeveless with self sash; dresses A, B, C have optional back strap; optional purchased belt.

Pattern Sizing: A5(6-8-10-12-14), EE(14-16-18-20). Mine was a 14 top, 20-ish bottom

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It really does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? They're SOOOO easy! This dress *maybe* took me three hours to make including pattern fitting and cutting.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It's a quick project that was done 75% on my serger. The only dislike is that the particular neckline can be tricky to keep on your shoulders. While perusing JoAnn, I ran across some nifty "Strap Tamers" that you pin at your shoulder seam and it keeps your bra straps hidden. You can leave them in the garment and launder them without worry. They're great little gadgets for a boatneck top, too. Here's a picture of the product and you can buy them here.

Fabric Used: Mid-weight polyester jersey from JoAnn. I like that the pattern includes both black and brown so I can pick different shoes and accessories, depending on my mood.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

• For maximum versatility, I made this a reversible dress, combining the square neckline of View C with the cowl draped back of view B. I've worn it both ways. 
• I passed on the elastic casing and instead added clear swimsuit elastic to the waistline before I sewed up the sides. (sewed sleeves in flat)
• I added 3" from hip to knee. (They aren't kidding when they say the dress is "close fitting".)
• 1" FBA
• Added 5" to the length (not all in one place, but proportionally). It's SHORT!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is the second time I've made this dress. The first was a sleeveless LBD that also had the square/cowl neckline options. It's a great dressy summer travel dress!

Conclusion: This is one awesome dress! I've already worn it at a black tie event as well as to work. It's been a versatile addition to my winter wardrobe!

V8634 • Dotty Cowl

Remember this fabric? It's from my Italy haul!

 

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pullover tops A, B, C, in two lengths, have collar and stitched hems. A: short sleeves. B: three-quarter length sleeves. C: long sleeves. I made view C.

Pattern Sizing: XS – XL. Mine was a straight M. (hooray!)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It did! 

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't even look at them. I put the sleeves in flat, but don't know if that differs from the pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? That seam below the bust is completely unnecessary. I really like how slimming this pattern is.

Fabric Used: Delicious, heavyweight jersey from Bassetti Tessuti! The cowl gets lost in the photo, but it's there.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Like others who have made this, I eliminated the seam below the bust. It doesn't add anything to the design when you're working with such a busy fabric. I added 8" to the cowl length because I like a "meatier" cowl. 

I assembled the entire project on my serger and used 1/4" seams.

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and YES! I've already made it again, in a forest green jersey. It sews up in under two hours, which is fantastic when you need a sewing quickie. I think this will be a gorgeous use of my peacock alpaca fabric, too.

Conclusion: I can't begin to tell you how much I love this top and this style! Make one already, wont'cha?