Thursday, May 26, 2011

KS3408 || Painterly Wrap Dress

Ready for my clean getaway! LOL

I've got a thing for wrap dresses. They're quick, they're easy to throw on when you're making a clean getaway (Diane!! Shocking!), and they always make me look so put-together and stylish. Love that! They also look fantastic with boots, flats AND sandals. A trifecta of footwear!

That being said, I've made three wrap (and faux-wrap) dresses in the past, and until now, was never successful. Either the fabric was wrong, the flippy facings bugged me, the armholes were too low, it gaped in the front skirt area when I sat or I just couldn't keep the darn thing closed in the bodice. Argh. The KS3408 is the first wrap dress pattern I would consider a total, unmitigated success.

Pattern Description: Misses' fitted wrap dresses have a waist seam, a slightly flared skirt, a V-neckline, bust darts, and self-fabric ties. View A has long sleeves and is over-knee length; View B has 3/4 length sleeves and above-knee length. I made View B with even shorter sleeves.


Pattern Sizing: XS - XL. Mine is a Medium, even tho most of my measurements were in the "Large" column. The pattern has enough ease in it to go down a size (with additional alterations). I wanted it to be relatively close fitting.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Terrifically easy. Kwik Sew does a great job with instructions and diagrams.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love that it has enough walking ease in the skirt to stay closed, the neckline is drafted so it won't gape, even if you don't use clear elastic there. Construction was fast and easy, and, as I have a long torso, I didn't have to add my usual inch to the length of the bodice. (the weight of the skirt pulls it down.) That's a lot of good things in one little pattern.

Fabric Used: ITY Knit from JoAnn

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I have narrow shoulders, so I removed 1/4" from there (didn't alter the sleeve). I did a 1/2" FBA, added 1/2" high round back adjustment and removed 1-1/2" from bodice length so that the seam would fall at my high waist (the skinniest part!). I also doubled the width of the ties and added 10" to the tie length. I might add 10-15" more length next time, as it might be fun to wrap it around another time. Instead of hemming, I used my serger's roll hem feature on the neckline and hem. I'll probably go back and shorten the sleeves even more and roll hem them as well. We'll see...

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is, hands down, the best drafted wrap dress pattern I've used. I highly recommend it, and will definitely make it again. (And again, and again.)

Conclusion: I love this dress. If you can get your hands on the OOP pattern, it's a timeless, easy classic piece to add to your wardrobe.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

V1049 (OOP) | The Hunt for the Perfect Boatneck is Over!

I am OBSESSED with boatneck tops! It's such a classic style, and I've been seeing many boatnecks coming up for fall, especially in Oscar de la Renta's collection. So of course, I had to make my own.


Hello, new wardrobe staple!
Pattern Description: Boatneck top with asymetrical hem option.

Pattern Sizing: All

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Ridiculously easy. This would be a great beginner sewing project with knits.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It came together very quickly. I also like that Sandra's pattern has a cut-on facing. (more on this below) I also REALLY like that the top covers my bra straps. Other boatnecks I've tried had necklines that were SO wide, those darn straps always showed. (argh.) I think in future iterations, I'll take off .5" from the CB to avoid the neck gape.

Fabric Used: Polyester knit with spandex from JoAnn.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't like how there are bust darts on both the facing and the top itself. Lining them up was a pain, and if you don't do it exactly right, it shows. I ran a basting stitch where the dart in the lining would go and gathered the material instead. It made for a better finish and doesn't look weird on the outside.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I've already sewed it up twice since shooting this and think it'll be a wardrobe staple come fall. It's so versatile for my wardrobe!

Conclusion: I love this top. This pattern is OOP, but I highly recommend it! Get your paws on it if you love a fabulously drafted boatneck top!



Top Left: Leopard print cardi (thrifted) and trousers.  
Top Right: Cute summer skirt (me-made) and jean jacket.
Bottom Left: With houndstooth skirt (me-made) and jacket.  
Bottom Right: Safari jacket, jeans and new kicky red vinyl shoes (thrifted).

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Count Me IN for Me-Made-June!


'I, Darcidoodle of http://darcidoodle-do.blogspot.com/, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-June '11. I endeavour to wear at least one me-made garment each work day this month. I will also challenge myself to remix if there are repeats for the duration of June 2011.'

Monday, May 2, 2011

S2256 | That Sure Is a Yellow Jacket!

They'll see me coming AND going!
I saw this cute little jacket at Simplicity Fashion Show at the Sewing Expo in Puyallup this last March. This cornea-searing yellow fabric has been in my stash for awhile, originally destined to be an outerwear jacket. Unfortunately for me, the fabric was too thin for outerwear, but not too thin for a cute, springy jacket!

Pattern Description: Misses' unlined jacket in two lengths with neckline and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: 4-22. Mine was a 12 in the bodice, adjusted to a 14 in the hips and waist. Even with flat pattern measuring AND trying on the pattern, this jacket ran LARGE. Like, so large I can't wear it open. :(

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It did!

Were the instructions easy to follow? They were incredibly easy to navigate.

Front
Back
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the peplum in the back a lot. The front is a little boring without any sort of flounce or collar. I dig it, but not everyone will.

Fabric Used:  Cotton/lycra blend from Fabric.com. The pearl buttons on the front and back are vintage, gifted to me by a good friend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I really wanted this jacket to be lined. Yellow is a lot like white, in that it's practically see-through if you don't line it. I lined it in lime green bemberg rayon. It shows through a little, so I don't think I'd do that again. I also (wrongly) attempted to bag the lining, but the peplum made the jacket hang wonky in the back. I frogged that, hemmed the lining separately from the  and fashion fabric, and got really well acquainted with swing tacks, which are fun to make! 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would make this again, certainly, although I'd make it a size smaller in the bust.
More versatile than you'd think!
Conclusion: The weather here in the Pacific Northwest can be a little unpredictable, so I'm sure I'll wear this jacket a lot! I'm really digging the bright yellow and chocolate brown combination, and having fun with some colourblocking. (Aqua, anyone? How 'bout PINK?)

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Another CAbi-Inspired Garment: The Paley Vest

CAbi FW 2010 Paley Vest
How cute is that little vest!? I just fell in love with its' graphic nature and the exposed zipper...it's a fun piece to add some spark to the wardrobe. Since it's still fairly cold here in the Pacific Northwest, I'll still be able to get some wear out of it before Spring FINALLY shows up and stays for awhile. We've been getting periodic sunshiny days, but most are still cold! Like 40s to mid 50s. Brrr!

Anywho... on to the vest! I got a screamin' deal on the fabric at Fabric Depot's Outdoor Sale two years ago. I think this wool/poly blend was something like $5 a yard. I made a winter coat out of it, too, and had about 2 yards left to play with. I made my own pattern, based on my Chanel jacket, which had princess seams. Not wanting to match up the houndstooth on princess seams because it's impossible, I joined the front and side front pieces at the seam allowance with pins and traced the joined pieces. I did the same thing for the back piece. When trying this on Betty (my dressform), I realized that I needed .5" bust darts added to the front. They're barely noticeable and make the front hang so much better. I also drafted the front and neck facings based on the pattern I created. I'm pretty pleased with the results. The fringe was fun and MUCH faster to make than on the Chanel jacket.

In the spirit of what I learned from MeMadeMarch '11, most garments I create from now on will go with at least three things I already own. So here goes! I skipped my favourite black pencil skirt/boot combination, because, well... it's boring. Also, it's supposed to be SPRING! Boots are for WINTER. Hear that Spring? I'm calling you OUT.

Houndstooth and pink paisley were made for each other, don'tcha think?
The back looks like I need a swayback adjustment, but IRL, it hangs fine. I must have been standing funny. In related news, after taking this pic, I realized that I have a flat butt. Must learn how to make flat butt adjustments for future trousers. These ones are doing my pert, cute butt NO favours. There may be colourful pants in my future. Wouldn't this look fantastic with RED pants?

I just love black and white houndstooth. I'm now the proud owner of black and white houndstooth Wellies, a purse, a skirt and now a vest. I'm flirting with the idea of wearing the larger format vest with the smaller format skirt. Is that too much? :)

With my red tunic top. Cute!

The long-sleeved white shirt I've been told is a wardrobe essential, but I have never worn. It looks good here!
With a dark denim shirt and jaunty scarf.

Casual with jeans and my pink swirl top. 

Friday, April 1, 2011

Week 5| MMMar '11

Looks like we made it!


Monday, March 28: That's a Wrap 
More alpaca from Italy! Also another wrap cardi. It's so cozy, I wear it around the house a lot. Here, I paired it with a self-drafted skirt and a ponyskin belt. Yee haw!

Tuesday, March 29: Darcidoodle, Girl Reporter
Don't I look like a modern Lois Lane? Just need my steno pad and my Press Pass!
After hanging out in the UFO pile (for too long), I finished this houndstooth pencil skirt over the weekend. The wool is from the Pendleton outlet store. I'm going to wear this skirt a LOT next fall. Also, it's got a fun orange lining!
  • Coat: Travelsmith
  • Skirt: M6038
  • Belt: Thrifted
  • Scarf: Brought back as silk panel from Italy, made into scarf. (Well, TWO scarves. My mom received its twin for her birthday. :)

    Wednesday, March 30 : It's Easy Being Green
    I really liked Erica B's version of this top and thought it would be a nice addition to my wardrobe. I was right! Next time, I'll make it out of a better fabric, tho!
    • Green Top: M6078
    • Black jacket + Cuff: NY&Co.
    • Grey, Striped Pants: CAbi
    • Necklace: Made by Me
    Thursday, March 31: Stylish Sophistication 
    Today is my birthday! A perfect day to debut my Chanel jacket! Can I tell you how much I love this jacket? It's like wearing a cozy sweatshirt, but far more refined. I'm going to own this forever.
    • Tank: CAbi
    • Chanel Jacket: V7975
    • Trousers: CAbi
    • Necklace: NY&Co.

    Friday, April 1: Woo hoo! We're Through!
    It's Casual Friday, so why not relax AND be quirky? This little top fits the bill.
    • Top: Twinkle Sews "Take Manhattan" (which should be made from a knit, not a woven...unless you LIKE looking like a modern flower, which apparently I do...)
    • Jeans: Land's End 
    •  Long-sleeved top: Cirque du Soleil (aren't the sleeves just awesome?)


      YAY for MMMar '11!

      Wednesday, March 30, 2011

      Channeling Chanel | V7975

      Chanel v2.0 FABulous boucle!

      This time last year, the Chanel jacket v1.0 broke my heart. For the month of March 2011, I vowed to circle back, give it another try and get 'er done. I've had this fabric in my stash since March 2010. I bought it for a screamin' deal at the Sewing Expo in Puyallup, WA. I bought eleventy-hundred yards of it, tho, so there will probably be a lined dress and possibly even a skirt made out of this in the future. Chanel herself paired these sorts of matchy-matchy outfits, which looks elegant and timeless. These are pieces that will be in my "forever wardrobe".

      Many folks on patternreview.com have reviewed this jacket, so I'll keep my notes brief. On my visit to Las Vegas, NV in October 2009, I spent two hours in the Chanel store, picking the brain of an incredibly helpful sales gal. After leaving, I got out the sketchpad and made tons of notes on the details that I'd seen. Before embarking on the actual sewing, I also did a boatload of research in both coutoure and semi-coutoure jacket construction. I consulted Go Chanel or Go Home to see what others were doing, too. Ultimately, my construction methods were guided by two articles from Threads magazine: Threads #128: "Shortcuts to a Designer Jacket" by Cheri Dowd and Threads #121 "Inside a Designer Jacket" by Susan Khalje. I HIGHLY recommend both of these articles as they were incredibly informative and literally "held my hand" through the whole process. I made the fantastically scruffy trim using this tutorial. I also added the chain at the hem (SO important!) and two jacket hooks and eyes for closures (hidden by the trim).

      Playing in my closet, I realized that this little jacket is incredibly versatile than I'd even known before I started making it. The boucle has at least 8 different colours to pair up with! Andy Paige from the TV show "Starting Over" and Style on a Shoestring always says that when you include a new piece in your wardrobe, it should be able to be paired with at least three things you already own. I really like this idea and will be making garments based on this philosophy in the future. Here's how I plan to mix up this jacket:

      Polished with a skirt, heels and pearls.
      Classy with a cool weather dress and boots.
      Casual with jeans

      Coco Chanel said that "Luxury must remain almost invisible but it must be felt." It's difficult to describe, but this jacket feels amazing to wear. I'm so hooked that I'm planning on making the next one from orange Linton tweed. (Karin! I think this might be your fabric, too!)

      Friday, March 25, 2011

      Week 4| MMMar'11

      Almost There!


      Monday, March 21: Dress of Many Colours
      Ah, my technicolour dreamdress, how I love thee. This dress makes me SO happy, but it's too cold to wear alone this time of year. The purple cardi (a gift from my BFF) is the perfect topper!
      • Kalediscope dress: S2550
      • Necklace: Made by Me!
      • Purple Cardi: Gifted, Lane Bryant

      Tuesday, March 22: My Life is a Tapestry
      I made this jacket in the Fit for Real People pattern adjustment class I took at FabDepot two years ago. I'd always wanted a jacket made from home dec fabric, and I love the way it fits me so perfectly.

      • Jacket: S2858
      • Necklace: Made by me, based on this one from Sundance
      • Cuff Bracelet: Made by me
      • Trousers: CAbi
      • Tank: NY&Co.

      Wednesday, March 23: Swirly Whirl Top
      Boatneck tops are SO hard to get right and this one is no exception. I love a good boatneck, but I HATE how my brastraps can't stay hidden. One of my projects for spring is to make a wearable knit boatneck top that hides my straps, includes bust darts, and has enough shaping so that I don't look like a rectangle. Yikes! This top's headed for a refashion. Away foul top!
      • Groovie top: NL6838
      • Black Trousers: NY&Co. 


      Thursday, March 3: A Case of Stripes Dress
      This is probably my favourite dress that I made last year. It's flattering and comfortable and has some shape to it, It's too cold to wear it alone, so I've got a black wrap stashed in my purse.
      • Dress: V8553
      • Necklace: Altered by me from a necklace I bought in Italy
      • Obi: Purchased in Italy 

      Friday, March 25: Purple People Eater Sweater
      This is probably the coziest sweater I own. It's made from the purple alpaca I brought back from Italy. If I'm having a particularly blue day, I put it on and WHAMMO, the day is better. Who could ask for more?
      • Sweater: V8634
      • Jeans: Land's End 
      • Necklace: NY&Co.

      Friday, March 18, 2011

      Week 3 | MMMar'11



      Monday, March 14: It's a Wrap!

      This faux wrap dress is just like wearing your bathrobe to work! It's seriously comfortable!
      • Dress: M5974
      • Necklace: NY&Co.

      Tuesday, March 15: Fit to be Tied

      Everybody needs a draped cardi! I really like the versatility of this piece. I wear it a lot in the summer.
      • Cross top: NL6470
      • Cardigan: M5241
      • Black knit pants: CAbi
      • Necklace: Made by Me!

      Wednesday, March 16: More Red Camouflage

      This sweet top fit right into my evil plan to cover my little tummy. I added 6 extra inches of fabric to include rusching. Top it with a faux fur chubbie and pair with leopard heels...I'm on the prowl!
      • Red rusched top: KS3756
      • Black chubbie: Marshall's
      • Necklace: Made by me!
      • Grey Pinstripe Pants: CAbi

      Thursday, March 17: Party Cardi

      In Italy this fall, I saw a Dolce and Gabanna sweater COVERED in sequins and immediately fell in love. Who doesn't adore something sparkly? I happened to have a boatload of sequins in my stash, just waiting for a project, so I popped the pre-made cardi on the dressform and started sewing sequins! It took about 15 hours of hand sewing (eek!) but the results are really stellar. I refashioned the striped shirt underneath from a Goodwill find. I'll be wearing it a LOT this summer!
      • Sweater: NY&Co. (refashioned to add shaping and 3/4 length sleeves)
      • Strapless top: Goodwill (refashion)
      • Skirt: Kohl's

      Friday, March 18: Refashioned Swote (Sweater Coat)
      The last of the sweater surgeries! This longer sweater was fun to make with many leftovers from other sweaters. Only the green cotton cashmere (body) and red double ply cashmere (sleeves) sweaters were made of whole sweaters at the beginning of the project. The swote attaches in front with three really large snaps and goes with everything! Every time I wear it out, people want to touch it. That's kind of funny.
      • Swote: Made by me without a pattern
      • Necklace: Made by me!
      • Tank: NY&Co.
      • Jeans: Land's End

      Monday, March 14, 2011

      Go Gonzo for Garbanzos!

      Yummy deliciousness!

      I love little portable snacks. If they're salty, all the better. This little snack packs a nutritional punch AND keeps me from answering the siren call of our vending machine at work. It takes a little prep time, but in the end, you've got a snack that's about 150 calories for a 1/2 c. serving. Perfect! YUM!

      Ingredients

      • 1 (12 ounce) can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained or 2c. dry chickpeas
      • 2 tablespoons olive oil
      • salt (optional)
      • garlic salt (optional)
      • cayenne pepper (optional)
      • Note: I used Johnny's Great Ceasar Garlic Spread and Seasoning, which is delicious!

      Directions

      If using dry beans: The night before baking, put chickpeas in a pot with water that covers them. Add 1T salt, 1 tsp. baking soda, 1T flour (I don't know the science behind this mixture, but it works! No one wants a half-cooked chickpea. Blargh!) 
      Get water boiling and then reduce to a simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Rinse beans in colander and put back in pot with enough water to soak them in. Let sit overnight (10-12 hours)
      1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C).
      2. Blot chickpeas with a paper towel to dry them. Put in baking pan to dry roast for 30 minutes.
      3. Turn them every 10 minutes
      4. In the last 10 minutes of baking, add olive oil and spices. Watch your garbanzos carefully so that they don't burn.
      5. Try to let them cool before you eat them. SO delicious!
      Enjoy!