Performing a Little Sweater Surgery

January has been all about sewing creations of a different kind.

I'd seen a lot of sweater surgeries gone awry on etsy.com, and I knew that I wanted a more streamlined, modern look vs. hippy/fairy queen/happy hands at home that seems to be prevalent in the refashioning sweater genre. After a year of trawling through the racks of "dead"/moth eaten/pitstained/"in need of a good shave" sweaters at Goodwill, I finally had enough cashmere and wool to make NEW sweaters. This was my first foray into sewing without a pattern. It's been fun to drape and fit and cut and stand back and see if the result is what I wanted.

Each sweater took one to two weeks to create and were constructed almost entirely with my serger. I'm very proud of how they all turned out. I think Betty wears them well!

The 1960s Cropped Sweater

Colourblocked Tunic – it's reversible!

Architectural Sweater Coat (swote!)

If you're thinking of refashioning your own sweater stash, this book was a great source of information and inspiration.

But wait, there's more! (2010 round up)

I sew SO many more projects than I ever post here (or on PR), so here's my laundry list for 2010, starting in March when I REALLY got inspired!

66 projects was a lot. I'm really satisfied with my sewing for 2010! I learned a lot (especially on that Chanel jacket!), but as with all things, I'm getting better (and faster!) as I go. Who could ask for more?

Spring 2010: (March – May)
- Chanel jacket: wadder!
- hem speckle pants
- make skirt out of matron dress
- install snaps in straps of stained glass dress
- boob tube for convertible dress
- lt. denim s/s shirt
- S2599 ruffle tank top out of ceruleun blue gauze
- cotton ripstop hiking/biking pants + pockets + cargo pockets (black)
- New Look 6838: boatneck tee in groovie olive/blue fabric
- cotton ripstop hiking/biking pants + pockets + cargo pockets (olive w/lime topstitching)
- white button-down shirt (Vogue 1165) • haven't worn yet
- workout shirts (draft from existing V-neck shirts)
- slips to go under cute skirts: cream
- Wrap dress (McCall's 5974, view C) > cut 14 bust/waist/hip, 3yds @ 60" stretch knit only. May not need zipper (look at other notes in Crafting)
- denim A-line skirt • never worn
- square neck knit top to go with cute skirts solid red + side ruching
- finish adjusting Mitzi's skirt

June–August
- adjust 4 previous self-drafted summer skirts for shorter hemline
- B5386 V-neck sweater
-  B5465 sheer red & brown v-neck tunic
- fleece robe (in June! Argh.)
- KS3790 brown rusched top to go with cute skirts 
- M6038 drapey red cardi (view B)
- s/s exercise tops (purple, blue green) XL
- M5860 black denim jacket
- padded bike shorts
- sports bra
- ripstop nylon packable grocery bag
- jammies out of wicking fabric for trip (boxers + tank)
- copy black ruched tank
- tan linen palazzo pants
- black linen palazzo pants
- B5465 crinkle cotton v-neck tunic
- (Linda McPhee) cargos (olive green + black)
- black A-line skirt (tie waist, like madras plaids skirt)
- striped v-neck dress (have V8553)
- dk brown linen, lined A-line skirt
- LBD for trip (M6069, view C)
- black travel fabric cross top (+ tunic?) TOSSED!
- stained glass cross top (fit is wonky!)
- security slip w/ two zippered pockets (lost before the trip)
- copy favourite underwear + make 3 pair for trip (perfect lycra scrap project!)
- hostel sheet :: add removeable hidden pocket to stash valuables/eyemask/earplugs (best $12 I ever spent)
- bucket hat with hidden compartment (didn't wear. Scrap project)
- ripstop nylon hidden pocket (Rick Steves' idea. Wore everywhere in Italy)

Fall/Winter (Oct.–Dec.)
- seam blackout curtains
- leopard print pencil skirt (w/lining) :: (cupcake goddess pencil fit tute) LOVE.
- leopard shrug/jacket (CAbi) (S2858)
- Vogue 8580 tunic, View C (like CAbi FW10
- V8151 wrap top in python (still needs bust adjustments)
- Brown LS tunic from La Mia Plus pattern (Sept10) TOO BIG: Off to Mom! (who likes it!)
- red fleece cowlneck
- faux fur stole
- fix winter duvet
- houndstooth winter coat
- V8634 drapey cowl tee peacock knit
- V8634 drapey cowl tee dotty black Italy fabric
- V8413 Joan Dress, View B grey doubleknit :: no lining!
- M6069 Mullet Dress
- Black fleece pants
- Hot pink funnel neck (wadder: off to Kimo)
- 1960s retro sweater (cashmere, thrifted sweater surgery)
- M6078 drape top (like Erica B's) in green (make in a better fabric next time!)
- Italy sequin tanktop for NYEve and Sewing Expo (New Look 6838)
- V8634 Italy purple alpaca sweater
- M6104 2 pr. boxers

Onward and upward with 2011 ~ the most creative year is to come!

NL 6838 || Shiny Happy People Tank

I can't believe the mileage I've gotten from this one little pattern. This New Look 6838 pattern was the very first pattern I ever bought, way back in 1995.  I've made the pants, the long-sleeved top and now the tanktop. I can't believe it's not Out of Print (OOP) yet -- that's a LOOONG life on a pattern!

With my gorgeous friend, Stephanie

Pattern Description:
Three tops sized for knits and two pants for wovens. Top A boat neck and ¾ sleeves, Top B wide V neck and long sleeves, Top C boat neck shell. Pants D and E both for wovens with drawstring and different lengths. I made Top C.

Pattern Sizing:
Multi-sized pattern from XS to XL. I graded the pattern from a Medium in the bust to an XL in the hips. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. With adjustments

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't even look at them! The nerve!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The last time I made this top, the original width of the boatneck was too large and required that I use various bra-strap hiding techniques, which was a pain. This time, I added 1-1/2" to each shoulder to fix it. Worked like a charm!

Fabric Used:
My double-sided sequinned fabric from Italy. This was my New Year's Eve top and needed to be sparkly! It also had to be done almost completely by hand, so that was  new challenge.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut both the front and back patterns on the fold to remove the center back seam. I lined the sequin fabric with black tricot and inserted it separately. Because I wanted the sequins to change upward/downward rather than right/left (revealing the black or silver, respectively), the stretch ended up being vertical, rather than horizontal around the body. I added a hidden side zipper to fix this more body-conscious silhouette.


I'd never made a garment by hand way before, but because of the pokey nature of the sequins, it couldn't have been done any other way. I was REALLY glad that I had the "Threads" archive CD to refer to or this never would have gotten done by New Years. Altogether, it was about 19 hours of hand-sewing, mostly because I spent 9 hours doing it WRONG before I started doing the construction correctly. My studio looks like a disco ball blew up! It's been fun to find hidden sparkles all around my house.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm sure I will, in other specialty fabrics. This pattern is remarkably versatile, give it a shot!
 
Conclusion:
This was the perfectly simple pattern to showcase my sequins. This top is both fun and functional! I plan to wear it often under jackets and with kicky skirts. Who doesn't need a little more sparkle in their lives?

S2558 • The Mmmrrrow! Jacket

The CAbi FW2010 collection inspires me again!

When I tried on this CAbi Lola shrug ($138) at this fall's CAbi party, I remember sighing a little. It felt like a warm hug, and who couldn't use more of THAT on cold winter nights? So I set out to make one of my own. I looked all over creation for the exact, plushy fabric that Carol Anderson used, but couldn't locate it. So I went for the next best thing: brown and black spotted leopard. I think this little number's going to look great with black AND brown, which will give it maximum versatility in my wardrobe.


Pattern Description: Misses Jacket with Front Variations.

Pattern Sizing: 4-20. Mine was a straight 14.
 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? With modifications, it looks like a longer version of the CAbi Lola shrug, which is what I was going for!
 
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yep. I find it curious that, with wool as a fabric option, the pattern designers didn't include lining instructions and pattern pieces. It didn't deter me from adding the lining anyway.

What did you like/dislike about the pattern? I was too eager to make this coat, so I didn't pattern fit, which was a mistake all 'round. This unstructured coat pattern is SO boxy and has too much ease. Next time I make it, I'll take off about 3" of ease. I can't wear it closed as it gapes and hangs funny, which is kind of a bummer.

Fabric Used: Low pile faux fur from Fabric Depot.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added a hot pink lining. What girlie girl doesn't love that? I also used hooks for closures as they're hidden in the fabric. Compared to the notch collar of the CAbi design, mine has a shawl collar.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would! Just check that ease or you'll be swimming in this jacket.

Conclusion: It's (nearly) exactly what I wanted and cost less than 1/3 of the Lola shrug. Thanks for the great inspiration, Carol Anderson!

M6069 | The Mullet Dress

Get it?

You know! "Business in the front, party in the rear".  :)

The V-neck is surprisingly bra-friendly!

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESSES AND SASH: Pullover, above mid-knee, semi-fitted straight dresses A, B, C have elastic waist casing, stitched hem and bodice variations; dress A is sleeveless; dress B has three-quarter sleeves; dress C is sleeveless with self sash; dresses A, B, C have optional back strap; optional purchased belt.

Pattern Sizing: A5(6-8-10-12-14), EE(14-16-18-20). Mine was a 14 top, 20-ish bottom

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It really does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? They're SOOOO easy! This dress *maybe* took me three hours to make including pattern fitting and cutting.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It's a quick project that was done 75% on my serger. The only dislike is that the particular neckline can be tricky to keep on your shoulders. While perusing JoAnn, I ran across some nifty "Strap Tamers" that you pin at your shoulder seam and it keeps your bra straps hidden. You can leave them in the garment and launder them without worry. They're great little gadgets for a boatneck top, too. Here's a picture of the product and you can buy them here.

Fabric Used: Mid-weight polyester jersey from JoAnn. I like that the pattern includes both black and brown so I can pick different shoes and accessories, depending on my mood.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

• For maximum versatility, I made this a reversible dress, combining the square neckline of View C with the cowl draped back of view B. I've worn it both ways. 
• I passed on the elastic casing and instead added clear swimsuit elastic to the waistline before I sewed up the sides. (sewed sleeves in flat)
• I added 3" from hip to knee. (They aren't kidding when they say the dress is "close fitting".)
• 1" FBA
• Added 5" to the length (not all in one place, but proportionally). It's SHORT!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? This is the second time I've made this dress. The first was a sleeveless LBD that also had the square/cowl neckline options. It's a great dressy summer travel dress!

Conclusion: This is one awesome dress! I've already worn it at a black tie event as well as to work. It's been a versatile addition to my winter wardrobe!

V8634 • Dotty Cowl

Remember this fabric? It's from my Italy haul!

 

Pattern Description: Close-fitting, pullover tops A, B, C, in two lengths, have collar and stitched hems. A: short sleeves. B: three-quarter length sleeves. C: long sleeves. I made view C.

Pattern Sizing: XS – XL. Mine was a straight M. (hooray!)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It did! 

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't even look at them. I put the sleeves in flat, but don't know if that differs from the pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? That seam below the bust is completely unnecessary. I really like how slimming this pattern is.

Fabric Used: Delicious, heavyweight jersey from Bassetti Tessuti! The cowl gets lost in the photo, but it's there.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Like others who have made this, I eliminated the seam below the bust. It doesn't add anything to the design when you're working with such a busy fabric. I added 8" to the cowl length because I like a "meatier" cowl. 

I assembled the entire project on my serger and used 1/4" seams.

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and YES! I've already made it again, in a forest green jersey. It sews up in under two hours, which is fantastic when you need a sewing quickie. I think this will be a gorgeous use of my peacock alpaca fabric, too.

Conclusion: I can't begin to tell you how much I love this top and this style! Make one already, wont'cha?

Faux Fur Stole Tutorial

In Italy, faux and real fur clothing and accessories were EVERYWHERE. Fur vests, little boxy fur jackets and fur stoles are on trend for Fall/Winter 2010. Nothing looked terribly difficult to construct, so when I got home, I decided to make a stole for myself. It's SUPER easy, incredibly quick and delightfully chic. Make one for yourself! Here's how:

Supplies:

• 1/8 – 1/4 yd. faux fur
• 1/8 – 1/4 yd. lining fabric
• tracing paper, pen, ruler, scissors
• razor blade 
• needle and thread
• one chopstick

How to:

Step 4

Step 6

1. Make a paper template that is half the length of your finished stole. Mine was 31"L x 6.5"W. Taper and round off the ends so they're not square. 
2. Cut out your lining fabric on the fold with this template.
3. Lay the template on your faux fur with fur side down. Leave enough room on the fabric to "flip" the template horizontally when you're done cutting out half of the stole. Pin template to faux fur.
4. Using a razor blade (never scissors!), cut out faux fur, slicing only through the backing of the fabric, not the fur.
5. Flip the template horizontally and complete cutting the faux fur with the razor.
6. With right sides together, pin the faux fur to the lining, using the chopstick to encourage all the little hairs to stay inside the "burrito". Leave a 6" gap open to pull the fabric through. (see pic, Step 6)
7. Sew everything but the 6" gap. I used a 5/8" seam allowance.
8. Pull the right side of the stole thru the gap.
9. Pull out any hairs that were trapped in the seams with the chopstick.
10. Sew up the gap, by hand, with a running stitch.
11. Secure wrap in place with a decorative pin or drape it over yourself like a diva!

Go forth and rock that stole!

V8413 • The Joan Dress

Look! It's all the beautiful people – all in one place.

I have a confession to make. I love Mad Men. From the amazing period clothes and furnishings to the clever dialogue and twisty-turny storylines, I look forward to every episode. I love the characters, even when helplessly flawed. And root for them when things get a little rough. (Although I'd love to take on Betty Draper and her pearls in a mudwrestling match! That girl needs to loooosen up! And maybe take a parenting class or twelve…) 

Christina Hendricks as Joan Holloway

Also, when I was snoop shopping in Rome last month, Fendi had a similar dress in a mustard colour ($900…really, Fendi? REALLY?). Around the neck, they'd placed a $800 fur stole. I knew I could rock that look… and I put the whole shebang together (including leopard heels!) for less than $100. This dress alone, I will wear for YEARS. (Look for the fur stole tutorial coming soon!)


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Pattern Description: Close-fitting dress have bodice, sleeve and collar variation, straight skirt with front pleats, back darts, zipper and vent. Three-quarter length sleeves, princess seams and one piece collar. Hem hits at mid-knee. (I made View D)

Pattern Sizing: 8-24. I made 14 bodice and a 16 skirt. My usual combo.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope 

Vogue 8413

once you were done sewing with it? Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow? I looked at them once to figure out how to put the cowl and facing together.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This was a quick dress to make! The design lines are simple and it's an elegant garment I can dress up or down. My kicky black boots will look great with this, too!

Fabric Used: Polyester double knit, which I'd never sewn with before. It's is a dream, and I'm planning on using it again in dresses and other garments. (See Gertie's link for sewing with doubleknits.)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
1/2" princess FBA, added 1" to bodice length, high round back adjustment. I'm 5'9", so I added 2" to hem of skirt so it would cover my knees.
 
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I can see it in red… and purple… The design variations in the pattern give a lot of flexibility.

Conclusion: This dress is amazing. I can dress it up or down and it's comfortable without looking slouchy. I think it'll get a lot of wear this fall and winter!

Adding to the Stash : Bassetti Tessuti, Rome, Italy

Rooms upon rooms of fabric. Heck yeah!

Have you heard of Bassetti Tessuti? (which is really fun to say!)

Before I'd read the NYT article about them and been to Rome, I hadn't either. In planning my trip to Italy last month, I KNEW I had to stop there. I'd heard it was overwhelming, amazing and so fabulous they gave you a GUIDE, but until I got there, I had NO idea what kind of "Alice in Wonderland" kind of experience I was in for. Floor-to-ceiling fabrics of all sorts. Here, a room full of men's suiting, there, a room full of crisp cotton shirting. 99.9% of it completely unavailable in the US. I was like a kid in a candy store, but oh, what candy!

So, without further ado, let me show you what I bought and what I plan to do with it.

Alpaca wool in teal and purple : Soft enough for some beautiful sweaters!
Anyone got a good sweater pattern?
I'm open to suggestions.

100% silk panel. This will be hemmed into a scarf.

Black and white burnout velvet. I'm thinking of a long-sleeved button up. Cute over a tank top and trousers.

Bitmapped 100% silk fabric from Gianni Versace (!!). Destined to be one of these.

Olive burnout velvet. Will be lined in nude and made into a tank top.

Heavy lycra jersey destined to be cute, long-sleeved tops. Possibly with cowls (my new favourite thing!)

The splurge: sequins! That are black on one side…

And silver on the other. This will be a tube top to be worn under sweaters and jackets.

None of it was cheap – averaging about $30US/yard. It was a PITA to ship (and spendy!), but I don't regret a purchase. Or the fact that my handsome "helper", Marcello, flirted with me mercilessly and begged me to go to lunch with him that day. Who am I to resist? I was furthering US/Italian relations. Just doing my part. Viva Italia!

It's Fall! Time for Bread and Soup!

I love bread. And carbs. And anything bread-adjacent.  Give me a good sized tub of butter and a fresh loaf of warm bread, and I'll make quick work of it. 

That being said, this was my first time actually baking bread, and although it was time-intensive (two rises! Four hours!?), as I hustled through my Saturday, I found that I could do everything I wanted to and STILL make bread. Healthy bread.

Let's just cut to the chase here. It was AMAZING. And also really, really tall. Next time, I'll make two smaller loaves instead of one big one. 

I paired my bread with some delicious Zucchini and Turkey soup from the "Cooking Light: Best Recipes of 2007" book that my friend, Kimo, let me borrow. It's simply the best soup I've had all year. Try it and I bet you'll agree. (recipe below)

Next challenge: sourdough!

OATMEAL SANDWICH BREAD
adapted from “Good to the Grain” by Kim Boyce.

Makes one ginormous loaf or two smaller loaves.

Ingredients

• 2 cups warm water
• 2+1/4 tsp active dry yeast
• 3 tbsp unsulphured (not blackstrap) molasses
• 2+1/2 cups whole wheat flour
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 cup rolled oats
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
• 1 tbsp kosher salt

 

1. Lightly butter a large bowl and a 9x5 inches loaf pan and set aside.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, stir water, yeast and molasses to combine. Allow the yeast to bloom for about 5 minutes, or until it begins to bubble. Add the flours, rolled oats and melted butter. Stir with a wooden spoon to combine, cover with a towel and let stand for 30 minutes.
3. Add salt to the dough, attach the bread hook to the mixer and mix on medium speed for 6 minutes, until the dough no longer sticks to the sides (add a tablespoon or two of flour if necessary).
4. For the first rise, scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead it a few times. Put the dough into the buttered bowl, cover with a towel, and leave it to rise for about 1 hour, or until it is doubled in size.
5. Scrape the dough onto a floured work surface. Shape it into a square, then fold it down from the top to the middle and then up from the bottom to the middle (just like you fold a letter). Bring the top and bottom edges together, pinch and seal.
6. Place the dough in the pan with the seam side down, and press it gently into the corners of the pan. Cover the dough with a towel, and let it rest in a warm place for about 1 hour, or until the dough rises to half again its size.
7. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake for 40 minutes, rotating halfway through. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Freezes well.

TURKEY, CHICKPEA AND ZUCCHINI SOUP
From Cooking Light Annual Recipes 2007, Makes 10 (1 cup) servings.


Ingredients
1 tsp. olive oil
1 c. chopped onions
1-1/2 tsp. minced, fresh rosemary
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 c. chopped zucchini
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/8 tsp. salt
1/2 ground chicken, turkey or tofu
4 c. broth (chicken, veggie)
1/4 c. dry white wine
3 T. tomato paste
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper (or more for spice)
2 - 15-1/2 oz. cans chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained
2 - 14-1/2 oz. cans diced tomatoes [darcinote: I used one. It was fine]
1 bay leaf
3/4 c. grated Parmesan cheese

1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, rosemary and garlic; sautee 2 minutes. Add zucchini, pepper, salt, red pepper and chicken/turkey/tofu; cook 5 minutes or until chicken is browned, stirring to crumble.
2. Add broth + wine, tomato paste, chickpeas, onions, tomatoes and bay leaf; bring to boil.
3. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Discard bay leaf, sprinkle with cheese.