Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Simplicity 2599 (View C-ish) • Gauzy Tank Top

 After the Chanel jacket v.1.0  fiasco learning experience, I needed a palette cleanser. I'm really pleased with how this turned out!

Pattern Description: Tank top with button closure and bust darts.

Pattern Sizing: P5 (12–20).

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes! Although I didn't make their ruffles.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't even read them. I take this as a sign that I'm improving as a sewer – instructions, shmanstructions!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The bust darts add some nice shaping, otherwise it's a pretty standard pattern. Went together in about 3 hours.

Fabric Used: Variegated polyester gauze from the stash that shreds like crazy. I'm thinking I spent about $3 for all of it. This top was based on a design I saw one of the "What Not To Wear" (UK) ladies wearing a few years ago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: High round back adjustment and added 2 inches to the length. I graded the 14 out to a 18 in the hips. I made MILES of bias strips to ruffle and roughen up for the "carnation" ruffles in the front. I basically played with the variegated fabric until I was happy with the results. I skipped the neck and armhole facings and bias bound them instead. All of the exposed edges are "roughed up" for a more deconstructed, modern feel.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I'd recommend it to anyone. It was quick and easy.

Conclusion:
It's a modern, fresh, fun spin on the classic tank top. I'll wear it with everything.

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Lessons in the Wadder

For those of you who sew, I'm sure you've encountered the nefarious wadder. It lurks in your fabric stash (and sometimes tip-toes through the patterns as well…). It's the project that calls your name, knows who you are and knows how to break you.

For the last two weeks, I have been working to finish my Chanel jacket (Vogue 7975). I wanted to wear it for my birthday (which is Wednesday, 3/31. Nothing says "happy birthday!" like cash!) I was learning new skills – how to insert piping, making my first pockets (which were gorgeous, I should tell you), and trying new couture sewing techniques. It was all very exciting. I planned to make a dress this fall in the same fabric and wear them together. Classy! Coco would be so proud.

From the start, the process was difficult. It took three hours for pattern fitting and five hours just to cut out all the pieces in triplicate (fashion fabric, lining and interfacing). When I started sewing them together, the pieces didn't seem to line up correctly. I kept "troubleshooting" construction with some very creative design solutions. It just wasn't working, but I pushed forward anyway. By the time I realized that this project was doomed to failure, I'd topstitched everything together and was ready to insert the sleeves (one of the final steps). I wasn't happy with the princess seams, the hem didn't hang right, the front of the jacket was poofy. Not even decorative trim could save this one. It was so disappointing. That jacket would have made Coco cry. What I failed to realize (until yesterday), was that I'd cut the lining out 1/2" too short. It was the crux of all of the problems. The shorter lining was "pulling up" everything, making the entire garment fit, hang and sew wonky. I'd made my experience completely difficult from the start, before I'd even sewn a stitch! This Chanel jacket was never going to make me happy and I wouldn't be proud to say (when someone inevitably asked), "I made this!" It would most likely hang in my closet, rarely – if ever – worn.


So I walked away.

And in walking away was the lesson that practically kicked me in the teeth this morning. This project wasn't a total loss. I'd learned so much in the process! I'd tried new techniques, honed new skills and was ready to try it again with the next Chanel iteration (v. 2.0, out of boucle, destined for creation Fall 2010). This project took me out of my comfort zone, it pushed me to try new things and take risks. It made me reach a little higher. It made me better for the experience.

Life is like that, too. Sometimes you give a new experience your all and jump in with both feet. You surrender to the fact that you may not know everything, and it may not be comfortable (change rarely is), but you're going for it anyway. Sometimes things just don't work out. Whether it be a relationship, a new career path or a sewing project, there's opportunities for hope and learning in failure. There's growth and knowledge that comes with taking risks. You put yourself out there and you did your best, and that's a good thing. Even when your heart's breaking. Even when you don't get the promotion you deserve. Even when your Chanel jacket (v. 1.0) is a wadder.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Simplicity 2472 • Prison Matron Dress


http://www.simplicity.com/p-3645-misses-dresses-cynthia-rowley-collection.aspx

This one was a complete and utter fail, gang. So bad, I'm not even going to post the picture because it's really awful. As promised at the Simplicity Fashion Show at the Puyallup Sewing Expo this year, this dress went together easily and quickly. I think the whole project took two hours. Unfortch, without the belt, it's a sack. On a twelve-year-old, that wouldn't be a big deal. On me, it's a dealbreaker.

Trying to revive it, I put a cardi over it before heading out of the house this morning. I turned around to look at my tukkas in the mirror…and…Wow. I had no idea that my pert little tushie could look so misshapen. So I belted it UNDER the cardi to give my bum some definition and took off.

I've been uncomfortable all day.

SO. I'll chop it off at the waist, add some elastic and it'll be a kicky skirt in no time. That, I'll have no problem photographing.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Weekend Sewing • "Go Anywhere Shirt Dress"


Pattern Description: Button-up shirt dress without facings.

Pattern Sizing: XS - XL (I made the M, grading out to L in the hips)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes! Even with all the swirly craziness of the fabric going on.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. The drawings and text made it easy for anyone who's a visual learner like me, to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I wish the skirt was just a wee bit more billowy. I think the next time around, I'll adjust the pattern so the skirt is a little more substantial.

Fabric Used: 100% cotton found at FabDepot last summer.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did an FBA, high round back adjustment and added 5 inches to the length. I graded the medium out to a L in the hips. I still think it's a little narrow for me, so I'll fix that for next time. I also lengthened the ties to tie twice around me.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. It was quick, easy, and delightful to sew. I plan on making a few of these.

Conclusion:
It's a classic. I think the next one will be dark denim for fall. Adding black knee-high boots would make it fab!

Kwiksew 3756 • Square Neck Top


Pattern Description: Pull-over dress and top that have darts at front neckline and front extends to form stand-up collar in back. Front neckline is finished with facing.

View A dress has full length sleeves and skirt is slightly A-lined.
View B top has cap sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: XS - XL (I made the M, grading out to L in the hips)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Absolutely. I will read them more closely next time. I cut the slits for the neckline before I was supposed to, and it made aligning the darts a little tricky.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I've owned a similar top in the past. The neckline showcases my necklace collection, bust darts add shaping and I adore the way the neck wraps around the back.

Fabric Used: ITY Jersey from FabricMart.com for $2/yd.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I graded the medium out to a L in the hips. I still think it's a little too big for me, so I'll stick with a straight medium next time. I'm also thinking of adding a few more inches to the length to add ruching on the sides. It will add more interest to an otherwise basic top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. It was quick, easy, and delightful to sew. It's a great addition to any separates collection.

Conclusion: I plan to make this in eleventy-hundred colours for spring and summer. In the fall, I'll add 3/4 length sleeves and make it out of wool jersey. I just LOVE this pattern!